South Africa,   Shamwari - Private Game Reserve SHAMWARI A little north-east of Port Elizabeth lies the Shamwari Game Reserve. I don't remember how many kilometres from Wilderness (in the middle of the 'Garden Route'), but the drive took us around 3.5 - 4 hours. 95% of South Africans can't afford to stay here, even by European standards this is an expensive place, but when you factor in all the meals, as much good wine as you wish and two game drives per day which are included in the price, it starts to become a more reasonable prospect. Over two days our fellow guest were German, Swiss or Irish. Shamwari has something around 25,000 hectares of actual game reserve, then there is a breeding centre etc., etc. Interestingly you follow the signs to the reserve until you reach the gates. The gates are opened for you and you head to your lodge. Whilst well signposted, it's an interesting feeling knowing a lion could waiting round the next corner for you. This was of course no problem, as we were in the 'Mighty Tazz!' We did meet some fauna - a large antelope called a Kudu, but one sight of us (Tazz) and it was off. On arrival you are greeted by the lodge manager, who almost without you noticing gets all of your luggage from your car to your room, and gets the car parked for you and manages at the same time to give you the history of the reserve! Arrival is usually in time for a large (if you wish) lunch, washed down with a choice of wines. Then you can have an hour or two to relax before your first 'game-drive' - perhaps by the pool? Our room was certainly in the 5 star category - even if you mess the bed up at mid-day, it's beautifully repaired for the evening(!) At 4:00pm we set off on our first game-drive. Six of us plus our ranger, Alison, in a big open top Landrover - with her rifle prominently displayed on the dashboard. I asked if she'd ever had to fire her rifle, the answer being "yes once every month - just to make sure it still works!" So our first game-drive took in white rhino, numerous types of antelope and giraffes. We also had a nice 'G&T' picnic stop, but make sure you look behind the bush before relieving yourself !!! On of the highlights of the whole holiday was finding a large male lion on top of a hill in the dark, and him treating us to a series of roars that echoed through the valleys. Dinner starts (of course) in front of the big fire with drinks. You can go with the standard wine selections or pay something(!) and take one of the cellar wines. I took a 1991 Simonsig Estate Wine - possibly the best wine of the holiday. Don't stay up too late though, tea & coffee arrives at 5:00am for the next game drive. Sunrise was worth it though - picture at the top of the page. So next morning and wrapped up well (it was cold) we saw a pride of very fat lions who'd just feasted on a Hartebeast, more rhino, giraffes, zebras, many different birds and different antelopes. Back to the lodge for a slap-up breakfast around 9:00am, then rest until lunchtime. I chose to relax and read a book - the first opportunity of the holiday, my wife decided to go for the massage option. Lunch over, another rest (for digestion) prior to the afternoon drive - again around 4:00pm. Once more, rhino, posing zebras, many elephants and still fat lions. Another excellent evening meal followed, but tempered by the fact we knew the 5:00am tea would be arriving for our last game drive. Perhaps a little less cold than the previous morning we ventured out. Our numbers were cut to three, ourselves and our guide Alison - the others decidied to stay in bed before leaving. This was a day of Giraffes, fat lions (again) and an attempt to find the hippos - but they didn't come out to play. On the Shamwari site we also visited the Born Free Rescue and Education Centre dedicated to Julie Ward - the photographer who was murdered in Kenya. Children take trips here to learn about the animals. There are also rescued animals in the 'cages' - each cage being over 10 acres! These are abused animals from all over the world which would have no hope of surviving if released - how about two lions who were used (for years) simply as an attraction in a 1m x 2m cage above a nightclub in Tenerife, completely open to the elements - very sad. The aim of the centre then is not to rehabilitate (it's too late once they get involved), only to educate and to make the animals last few years comfortable. Finally a picture of the fat lions. Expensive, and not something you could afford to do every year, but without doubt, worth every penny.       SHAMWARI       PO Box 113 Swartkops       Port Elizabeth       tel. +27 42 203 1111       email Shamwari       Site Shamwari © nanson.ch 2000-2002