|
|
South Africa, the accommodation we used |
Not just the accommodation, but something about the location too :
SEACLIFFE LODGE, HOUT BAY
Seacliffe Lodge in Hout Bay was home for the first few nights of our stay. Hout Bay itself is not one of the most picturesque towns you will find along the Cape, but there's also nothing particularly bad either. Provided you have transport, it actually makes an excellent base for exploring the Cape and the winelands of Constantia. It's also just 15-20 minutes drive into the centre of Cape Town. The bay itself is beautiful and at the end of October when we stayed there were whales in the bay every day.
Seacliffe Lodge is a relatively modern looking place. The rooms were of high quality and extremely clean. A full breakfast is included if you wish, cooked by your hosts who were helpfull and friendly. The best compliment - would I stay again? - Yes
Seacliffe Lodge
Hout Bay
Cape Town
tel. +27 21 790 6132
email Seacliffe Lodge
site Seacliffe Lodge
D'OUWE WERF, STELLENBOSCH
Stellenbosch is around a 90 minute drive East of Cape Town. Parts of the town have an olde worlde feel about them and are well worth rambling around on a quiet Sunday morning which is exactly when we did it. I feel the place has got quite large and is perhaps not what I would look for if if I was looking for a base for future travel: that said it is perfectly positioned for visiting any of dozens of wine estates.
We stayed for two nights at the d'Ouwe Werf which claims to be the oldest existing inn in South Africa - since 1802. Although looking a little none-descript from the outside once in, you are indeed transported back in time, the lounge and entrance have a lovely 'old-time' ambience. There is also space in the carpark at the side of the hotel. Our room was okay (we didn't pay for the executive version) but the walls were paper thin, and perhaps there was a bit too much furniture for the room size - important when you're living out of a couple of large bags, but a nice view of the smallpool area. For me the major black mark was the restaurant area. We only took breakfast, but the experience was not a good one. Imagine wondering why your rolls of smoked salmon are difficult to cut, only to find out it's because they still have 'cling-film' on one side! I can't complain about the service, but that's only because I didn't find any, though this was breakfast after-all.
So, the brochure describes d'Ouwe Werf as "a real treat, something special", I would agree if you don't mind listening to someone restocking the fridge in the room next-door at 7:00am and moving crates of bottles past the window at the same time. Would I stay again? -No, but then I probably wouldn't stop in Stellenbosch either.
d'Ouwe Werf
30 Church Street
Stellenbosch
tel. +27 21 877 4608
email d'Ouwe Werf
site d'Ouwe Werf
MIMOSA LODGE, MONTAGU
We took the 'Route 62' from Franschhoek to Montagu. This is a seriously impressive drive - next time I will do it a little more leisurely instead of rushing to make dinner in time! You drive past lakes, through tight valleys and over passes. Stunning scenery. Montagu is set in the Robertson area which has recently sprung to fame as a serious wine producind area - many boutique wineries setting up. Montagu itself has some lovely Cape Dutch properties, and a main street that brings to mind towns from old cowboy films. There's actually not much more to the place, but as well as visiting wineries, you could choose it as your base for exploring the little Karoo.
We arrived just in time to get ready for dinner, though I have to say with a little trepidation as this place seems to be talked of in the same breath as the d'Ouwe Werf - a place we were not overly impressed with. We were not to be disappointed. The place is owned by a Swiss emigré, Chef Andreas Küng and his wife. The place is interestingly decorated and furnished in an eclectic style, lots of character. You actually meet for drinks in 'the club' prior to dinner. Dinner itself was absolutely superb, some of the dishes on a par with La Colombe - that good! Instead of the merlot suggested by our waiter/sommellier Pieter, I chose a 1998 Kanonkop, Pinotage Estate Wine, I should have listened to Pieter. There was nothing 'wrong' with the wine, it just wasn't to our taste, very strident fruit - almost metallic. To be fair it was coming round and becoming softer as we got to the end of the bottle so obviously should have been decanted. Pieter to be fair, from a distance spotted that we weren't enjoying the wine so came over to test it. He agreed with me that there was actually nothing wrong with it, but he didn't like pinotage anyway !
Do yourself a favour try this place, take look at the website for a flavour. Would I go back? - Absolutely, but next time for more than one night ! Oh, and don't forget, the prices include your evening meal and breakfast.
Mimosa Lodge
Church Street
Montagu
tel. +27 23 614 23 51
email Mimosa Lodge
site Mimosa Lodge
WILDERNESS MANOR, WILDERNESS
The Garden Route location of Wilderness is set off the main N2 route between George and Knysna. Yet another place where we didn't spend enough time. The place is quite small and mainly residential, though a number of hotels and eating places are available near the highway.
The main road in the village (Waterside Road) gradually peters out into a dirt road from which (if you wish) you can take the challenge of the 'seven passes' route to Knysna. This will take over 1˝ hours (or did at my speed!) compared to 20 minutes via the main N2. On the other side of the village towards the sea, is a large lagoon which separates you from the N2. We took a fine walk to Victoria bay and back via the railway line where steam engines run every day.
So to Wilderness Manor itself. A modern looking home with a nice aspect - facing the lagoon. Inside is a revelation, each room looks like a candidate for a 'home & garden' magazine photoshoot. The owners Johan & Marianne Nicol take time to get out the maps on the billiard table(!) and let you know all the local possibilities and book meals for you etc., as only breakfast is available. A fantastic place, I'll certainly try and stop again.
Wilderness Manor
397 Waterside Road
Wilderness
tel. +27 44 877 0264
email Wilderness Manor
site Wilderness Manor
UNDER MILKWOOD, KNYSNA
Back in Knysna but with no booking for the evening. We happened on Under Milk Wood close to the Knysna Heads. This is basically a small village of self catering chalets which worked out at not too bad a price on a per head basis. Despite being self-catering there is breakfast a avialable for a charge which I enjoyed very much, my wife was already feeling the effects of 'Pukitas' the night before so had only orange juice. The cabin was a log-cabin affair, well equiped with kitchen, TV etc. Recommended for a family.
UNDER MILK WOOD
Knysna
tel. +27 44 384 0745
email Under Milk Wood
site Under Milk Wood
GUINEA FOWL COTTAGE, FRANSCHHOEK
Our last evening and half a day was spent in Franschhoek. This was the place that we liked most in the the Stellenbosch / Paarl / Franschhoek area. Lots of building work is going on - so he economy seems in good shape here at least, it's still a lovely small town though. Obviously quite 'touristy' in terms of shops, hotels, restaurants but still not bad. Actually if the best recommendation for a restaurant is one that you can't get a table at, then the 'Quartier Francais' in Franschhoek must be the place to go, as I tried and failed to get a reservation - three times. The town has a backdrop of stunning hills (mountains if you come from the UK, hills if you live in Switzerland) and it's worth driving up the pass just to take in the views across Franschhoek (the picture on the main page - click the SA flag at the top of this page to see). Franschhoek also boasts, by a large margin, the finest wineshop I discovered during the two weeks. Franschhoek Wine Cellar is on the edge of town on the Paarl road, mooching around in the real cellar you will discover not only the finest SA wines, but also great Burgundies and Bordeaux. My favourite Mont du Toit was just R120.00 on the shelf.
So, Guinea Fowl Cottage is close to the edge of town and the Guineafowl will be found everywhere - or their representations at least: soft toys, motifs on towels, cups, the keyrings etc. You also get a swimming pool, a real English pub at the bottom of the garden and a lovely cooked breakfast. Our room was erfect for a couple though I'm not sure if there is any more room for a family for instance. Superb value for money too. Recommended, and yes, I probably would stay here again.
Guinea Fowl Cottage
2 Roux Street
Franschhoek
tel. +27 21 876 2846
email Guinea Fowl
site Guinea Fowl
| |
© nanson.ch 2000-2002
|
|
|
