Another product of the Frescobaldi-Mondavi alliance; a triumph of packing, exuding quality from every angle - except perhaps one...
Taste
Luce della Vite (light of the vine) a sangiovese-merlot blend from the Frescobaldi vineyards around Montalcino. 'Joint winemakers' Lamberto Frescobaldi and Tim Mondavi try to make something of interest from a wine that was probably born in a marketing department. They fail, but it's their own fault...
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1995 Frescobaldi/Mondavi, Luce della Vite
Wow, gorgeous full colour, looks fantastic with the sunshine pushing its way through the dense hues. The nose equals the colour, developing over two hours, more and more interesting each sniff, black fruit, berries, coffee, more berries, creme brulee. In the mouth good acidity, fruit, drying tannins and . . . . horrible bitter oak that tames only slightly over 2 hours. To be honest I initially thought the wine could get a bit better with time, but that was before I drank the other bottles. In truth a great wine spoiled!
1996 Frescobaldi/Mondavi, Luce della Vite
The colour is not quite so impressive as the 1995 but still looks like there's a lot of material in the glass. The nose is interesting but is both less involving and evolving, higher toned. Again tons of oak on the palate and it's bitter again though not quite as challenging as the 1995. It's almost possible to enjoy drinking this one - almost...
I remember sharing a bottle of the 1997 Luce just after release. Lush, fruity - hedonistic even. This was a wine for instant gratification; and there's nothing wrong with that. This wine also garnered a few good reviews so was running off the shelf when I visited Montalcino back in 2002, despite a price of close to 100 Euros a bottle.
Luce had its inaugural vintage in 1995 and comes from a parcel of hill-top (1300 to 1500 feet) vines in Montalcino close to the Frescobaldi estate of Castel Giocondo. The blend is close to equal measures of Merlot and Sangiovese.
In 1997 fermentation was in stainless steel, 28 days extended skin contact. Malolactic fermentation was in 50% new, small French oak barrels, followed by a year of barrel aging. Then came an additional six months in Slovenian oak casks in the manner of Brunello and a further one year period of bottle-aging.
I guess what disappoints most is that 1995 was potentially a superb wine, but flawed in execution. The familiy resemblance is mainly that bitter oak which becomes drier and more pronounced as each year passes. I've no problem with the concept of a wine to drink young - the 97 was very good in it's youth, but a 'product' marketed as a "super-premium blend" should not have this flaw. Perhaps they've sorted out the problem by now, but I suspect having tasted what's in the cellar, many people (like me) will not make the repeat purchases to find out.
1997 Frescobaldi/Mondavi, Luce della Vite
Colour looks great in the glass, not quite up to the 1995. The nose is less evolving but closer to the 1995 than the 1996. What do you know, this wine is actually quite drinkable, indeed it's a pleasant wine of good depth, but the family resemblance is frightening given how the 1996 and 1995 show - if you have some drink it now - or you'll regret it. Not a patch on that early release bottle.
