nanson.ch caramba! - wines of spain and portugal

nice wines from spain and portugal

I seem to be getting a regular at these Martel tastings - problem is I usually end up finding several wines that 'need' to be purchased; in this case some very good value wines at that.

There should have been 33 wines to taste, but I avoided the Jerez wines as I detest the oxidised styles, also I avoided what should have been an excellent port (Warre 1997) as I find port to alcoholic . . .

The tasting was held in Martel's warehouse in St.Gallen and what more perfect place to be when the outside temperature is 30°C. Inside was a lovely sub-20°C, though I did find myself spending as much time looking at the contents of the shelves as tasting - thinking wouldn't it be nice to have some of this or some of that . . . Anyway, I tasted these wines semi-blind, by that I mean the labels were exposed but I tried to pay no attention to them, simply working from wine number 1 to wine number 30. Writing the notes up and putting the names to the numbers provided some pleasant surprises in terms of price/quality. One thing I did notice; was a complete absence of the strongly vanilla tainted spanish wines of my 'wine youth' - a good thing for my personal preference. For Swiss viewers I've included the promotional prices which should be valid for a few more weeks. So my favourite wines were the following :

2002 Pazo de Señorans, Albariño - Rías Baixas DO 19.20SFr
2001 ENATE, Chardonnay Barrique - Somontano DO 19.20SFr
2001 Albada, Garnacha - Calatayud DO 10.80SFr
1999 Bodegas Roda, Roda I Reserva - Rioja DOC 48.50SFr
1998 Bodegas Roda, Cirsion - Rioja DOC 185.00SFr
1999 Pesquera, Crianza - Ribera del Duero DOC 35.00SFr

2002 Pazo de Señorans, Albariño - Rías Baixas DO 19.20SFr
I remember fondly a Burgans Albariño from a few years ago which was also from the same region. Pale yellow. The nose gives the impression of a little wood and deep, almost pineapple notes. Nice in the mouth with refreshing acidity. Medium-plus length. This is a very interesting and tasty wine.
2002 ENATE, Chardonnay 234 - Somontano DO 12.80SFr
Even paler yellow. High toned though slightly retiicent nose of melon and pineapple, almost a little apricot too. Fruit like cheap boiled sweets on the palate and a reasonably long finish. Not bad.
2001 ENATE, Chardonnay Barrique - Somontano DO 19.20SFr
Pale-medium yellow. Nice nose of sweet melon without obvious oak. Fatter with deeper and much more sophisticated fruit compared to the last wine. Nice acidity and good length. This is very good.

2000 ENATE, Crianza - Somontano DO 13.50SFr
This is a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon which spends around 9 months in barrels. Medium cherry red colour. High toned over-ripe strawberry nose. Good acidity and mild though still drying tannin. Reasonable length. This is very good (if you factor in the price) and you could leave it in the cellar if you wished - but I'd drink it now.
2000 ENATE, 'Merlot-Merlot' - Somontano DO 33.50SFr
Funnily enough 100% Merlot! Deep ruby colour with a purple rim. The nose is of sweet red fruit, but just a little diffuse. Certainly a step-up in terms of concentration, with good acidity and medium weight drying tannin. Good fruit here, this is a good but very young wine - either drink with food or leave another 2 or 3 years.

2001 Albada, Garnacha - Calatayud DO 10.80SFr
A dark crimson/ruby colour showing a purple rim. Sweet nose which is a little peppery. Very interesting fruit with good acidity and medium-plus tannins. A long finish too. This is amazing value.

2001 Bodega Añada, Care - Cariñena DO 18.40SFr
Perhaps an even deeper colour, still with a purple rim. Deeper plummy nose, no peppery spice this time. More concentrated but also more restrained than the last wine. Less exciting today than the Albada, but also seems a little more backward - give it some time - still outstanding value.

Priorat seems to be a wine region which is getting much more exposure these days - maybe too much if the ever increasing prices are anything to go by - it is in the vanguard of the growth of new (and typically un-cheap) cuvées that emanate from Spain. In some respects there is more than a passing resemblance to the growth of the Super Tuscans with their glossy marketing and designer labels - of course when it comes down to design it's difficult to match the Italians, however, what is in the bottle can be more than a match. I hadn't come across any of these labels before - still, you can't have too much good wine!

2000 Sangenís i Vaqué, Garbinada - Priorat DOQ 16.50SFr
A medium cherry-red colour. The nose shows spicy red fruits. In the mouth it's smooth and quite fat with reasonable acidity and mild/medium tannins. To be honest I find the fruit just a little confected, but given the price this is still very good.
2000 Sangenís i Vaqué, Vall Por - Priorat DOQ 25.50SFr
Deep garnet colour with a cherry red rim. Smokey oak on the savoury nose - not much fruit here but holds the interest with perhaps some black olive. Nice deep fruit on the palate with good acidity and medium-plus furry tannins. I like the length, overall a very good wine and definitely worth the price.
1999 Sangenís i Vaqué, Clos Monlleó - Priorat DOQ 69.00SFr
Deep-medium cherry red. Nice slightly roasted cherry and blueberry nose. Fat and smooth with very furry tannins. Good acidity and predominantly black fruits which show super length. A super wine
2000 José Puig Finca Roquer del Ros, Odysseus - Priorat DOQ 41.00SFr
Medium-deep cherry. A black-fruity nose, again with a trace of black olive. Very good concentration in the mouth with furry tannins and well judged acidity. Good length too. Very nice.
1999 Cims de Porrera - Priorat DO 62.00SFr
Old vine Garnacha and Cariñena (60 to 90 years) with a dash of Caberent Sauvignon (~5%) and 17 months in French oak. Deep garnet in colour with a lighter cherry red rim. The nose is very tight - giving very little away. In the mouth the wine is sweet and concentrated with very forward fruit which lasts long in the finish. This is for sure good wine but needs a little more time in the cellar.

1999 Javier San Pedro, Vallobera Crianza - Rioja DOC 16.20SFr
Deep crimson colour. Black fruit and oak on the nose. Less sweet than the last few wines. Smooth drying tannin and good acidity - not sure about this one - is there a trace of cork taint on the finish?
1998 Javier San Pedro, Vallobera Reserva - Rioja DOC 22.50SFr
Deep ruby with a cherry red rim. Understated but savoury nose. Medium concentration but a lovely smooth mouthfeel. Good acidity with understated smooth tannin. Finishes with a burst of fruit. Very good.
1999 Bodegas Roda, Roda II Reserva - Rioja DOC 31.00SFr

Medium-plus garnet colour, still a little cherry at the rim. A little woodspice on the nose with very understated fruit. Medium concentration with good tannin and acidity. Shows in a very young way, but the finish is persistent. One to keep.
1999 Bodegas Roda, Roda I Reserva - Rioja DOC 48.50SFr
Much deeper colour. The nose shows wood and closely guarded fruit similar to roasted plum. Smooth and very concentrated, this is a significant step up from the previous (Dos) wine. Very good length - a wine I like a lot.
1998 Bodegas Roda, Cirsion - Rioja DOC 185.00SFr
Inky deep colour. The nose shows super depth with a melange of of red and mainly black fruit. I last tasted this in March and found an oaky note on the nose but this has already subsided. A velvet palate of deep furry tannins which are just about balanced by the fruit - which by the way is black in character and of super depth. A super wine which despite its concentration is balanced and drinkable. Speaking with Jan Martel after he tasting, he told me that the wine is actually a 'grape-selection' i.e. the best grapes from each bunch going into the press, then not too long in oak to try and retain as much of the fruit as possible. They have found success but despite it's quality I can't see myself buying at this price.

2000 Viñaguareña, Barrica - Toro DO 14.40SFr
Medium-plus cherry red. The nose has some toasty oak overlaying a sweet background. In the mouth it's sweet and medoum bodied with slightly oaky fruit and good acidity. This is quite nice and very good value.
2000 Viñaguareña, Crianza - Toro DO 17.80SFr
Deep cherry red. Reticent but interesting nose with a tinge of vanilla. Medium concentration with drying tannins and good acidity. Long and very nice - no rush to drink this one - another fine value.

1999 Briego, Crianza - Ribera del Duero DOC 25.00SFr
Again a very deep cherry red. Similar nose to the last wine but just a little more creamy. Furry tannin which somehow seems to obscure the fruit a little. Seems just a little less balanced than the last wine.
2000 Pago de Carraovejas, Crianza - Ribera del Duero DOC 25.00SFr
Medium-plus cherry red colour. The nose is quite savoury - almost sundried tomatoes - I never found that before. Medium concentration well balanced with the acidity. The tannins are well hidden and there's a very nice finish - enjoyable.
1999 Pesquera, Crianza - Ribera del Duero DOC 35.00SFr
Medium-plus cherry colour. The nose is understated with a little raspberry and deep, slightly roast fruit. Very smooth with good acidity and nice fruit. Well hidden tannins again, and a sneaky long finish. Only the finish really distinguishes itself over the last wine.
1999 Pesquera, Reserva - Ribera del Duero DOC 41.50SFr
Again medium-plus cherry red. A deep and quite plummy nose. Good depth to the fruit with well balanced acidity and tannin. Good, but doesn't seem to have the sneaky length I found in the basic Crianza.
2000 Castilla y Leon, Leda Viñas Viejas - Tudela de Duero DOC 51.00SFr
Not really from the 'Ribera', but the neighbouring region of 'Tudela'. Deeply coloured with a purple rim. Just a little oak with creamy black fruit . Smootha nd concentrated with expensive tasting tannins - big but very silky. Lovely acidity keeps it fresh and long. Very tasty wine - and still pretty good value.

2000 Bodegas Estefania, Tilenus Crianza - Bierzo DO 26.00SFr
Getting into a bit of a rut here - almost all the wines are the same medium-plus cherry red . . . . A high toned nose of red fruits. In the mouth the wine is sweet with creamy, concentrated fruit - just a little licorice too. Well balanced, I find this a very individual and interesting wine - I like it a lot.
2000 Bodegas Estefania, Tilenus Pagos de Posada - Bierzo DO 46.00SFr
Same colour as above. This time the nose shows lots of toasty oak and to be honest it's very difficult to find anything underneath - if you like your wine to smell of fruit, you will have to wait a while for the oak to fade. Sweet, roast red and black fruits with furry tannin and slightly harsh acidity. It has a quite lovely length, but if I were drinking today then I would jump for the cheaper Crianza. 2000 Quinta da Carvalhosa, Campo Ardosa - Vinho Tinto Douro DOC 22.50SFr
Medium-deep cherry red colour. The nose is a little musky. Sweet palate which is both concentrated and a little herbal - but in a nice and interesting way. Very long, this is both interesting and individual. Good wine.
2001 Cortes de Cima, Chaminé - Alentejo 12.80SFr
Medium-plus cherry red colour. A roast raspberry and herb nose. Sweet, smooth and quite concentrated. Good acidity which it keeps it fresh and moreish. Very good and another wine with super value.
2000 Cortes de Cima, Tempranillo/Trincadeira - Alentejo 21.00SFr
Medium-plus colour, but more ruby red shaded. Bright, high-toned fruits on the nose. Medium concentration with good acidity and understated tannins. Good but not especially interesting.
2001 Cortes de Cima, Incognito Syrah - Alentejo 38.50SFr
Medium-plus cherry red colour. A little peppery fruit on the nose. Concentrated, sweet fruit on the palate. There's good acidity and well handled tannins. A very good and well balanced wine - I like this style.