|
Domaine Spielmann Food & Wine Extravaganza November 2001 |
Dîner de l'Oenologie at La Petite Palette - Neuf-Brisach
Chef Henri Gagneux
+33 389 727 350
Sylvie Spielmann is now responsible for this Domaine after working for a short time in Australia. She is working more and more, on organic & biodynamic principles. This makes the wines a little more expensive than some domaines, but I think in the more recent vintages you can start to see the effect.
A good comparision would be with Domaine Marcel Deiss. Both are based in Bergheim, and Deiss (ignoring higher pricing) has tended to have purer and more concentrated fruit on the palate. In the more recent vintages I think the gap has narrowed considerably. Certainly a domaine worth your attention.
Pinot Blanc Réserve Bergheim 1999
Emincé de veau mariné à la crème de citron
Pale yellow with a yeasty and toasty nose - almost like champagne. Thick in the mouth with medium length, a nice wine. I expected the lemon in the dish to overpower the wine, but was surprised to find it actually amplified the finish. A superb food match.
Sylvaner Bergheim 1997
Cuisses de grenouille à la Granny Smith et persil plat haché
Very aromatic fruit on the nose, not yeasty this time. Can imagine chopped pineapple and banana. Very acidic and mineral. Food tones this down to make an excellent match.
Riesling Grand Cru Kanzlerberg 1987
Langoustines rôties à la marjolaine
Deep gold. Kerosine, but not too high octane rating ! Nose is reminiscent of a Vendages Tardives. With food, the finish was ever-changing. This wine is still very young and fresh - excellent.
Sélection Grains nobles Riesling Grand Cru Kanzlerberg 1997
Paupiette de volaille au léger caramel et banane rôtie au citron vert
Only slightly lighter colour. Nose was initially woody but improved giving some banana notes, questioned it, and the second bottle was much 'purer'. My first SGN, it was like a very good VT with excellent acidity and length. Not sure anything would have gone with caramel, banana and chicken - but a nice wine !
Gewurztraminer Blosenberg Bergheim 1998
Foie gras poêlé au tandoori et purée de navets boule d'or
Never my favourite variety, the nose though characteristic is quite understated. The palate is viscous with lingering acidity. Although not my favourite grape, certainly a well-made wine, and went quite well with this course too, but forget that (!) this course was fabulous on it's own ! Tried some more of the SGN with this, but it seemed too tart with the foie gras.
Muscat d'Alsace Réserve 1996
Pré-desert : Mousseline de menthe au civet de cacao
Very pale. Nose is very 'heavy', not fruit though, more like ethoxy-ethanol. A lovely palate and beautifully long. This time spoiled by the food - became flat and thin.
Riesling Vendages Tardives Grand Cru Kanzlerberg 1994
Sauté d'agrumes au caramel d'oranges
Pale lemon colour. Nose it quite characteristic of the other rieslings today - could this be the taste of Kanzlerberg - certainly very different nose to the Marcel Deiss 1994 VT riesling from Altenberg. Very long, even with the dessert - bravo !
| | |
